Great Walks of New Zealand
Milford
South Island
Milford Track is a world-renowned hiking trail located in the stunning Fiordland National Park in the South Island of New Zealand. The track is 53.5 kilometers long and takes hikers through some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world, including majestic mountains, pristine lakes, and cascading falls. It is the jewel in the crown of the New Zealand Great Walks and is the most popular for good reason.
Quick Overview
​If you are keen to read our real experience of the track - Read it here
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The Milford Track
The Milford Track is the most regarded and well known of the NZ Great Walks. The track is located in the Fiordland National Park at the bottom of the South Island where the Routeburn, Kepler, and Hump Ridge Great Walks are also located. The track takes 4 days to complete over 53.3km and can only be walked in one direction. There is no camping allowed on the Milford Track and huts must be booked to complete this hike.
There are 3 huts on the Milford Track - Clinton Hut, Mintaro Hut, and Dumpling Hut all with 40 bunks which have fires, flushing toilets, running water and gas cookers with fuel (only during the Great Walks season). The track should be attempted by most hikers during the Great Walk Season from approx October to end of April. Outside of this season the walk should only be attempted by fit and experienced hikers due the risk of encountering ice, snow, avalanches, and short daylight hours.
The Milford Track is one of the most popular Great Walks and will book out for the entire season in minutes. On the day the bookings open (sometime in May before the next Great Walks season) you will need to be logged into the Department of Conservation (DOC) website ready to try and book huts. If you are unable to secure hut bookings, there is often space on the Guided Walks run exclusively by Ultimate Hikes which costs significantly more but offers nicer lodges, meals, a bar, hot showers, and experienced guides.​​​​
What To Expect
Day 1 – Te Anau Downs to Clinton Hut - 50min boat ride and 1hr hike / 5km
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Day 1 entails a water taxi ride from Te Anau Downs wharf (30min drive from Te Anau). The boat ride takes 50 minutes across Lake Te Anau disembarking passengers at Glade Wharf. Hikers will walk an easy flat 5km track to Clinton Hut under beech forest.
Day 2 - Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut 17.5km / 6hrs
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The17.5km hike from Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut should take approx 6 hrs. The track follows the Clinton River and winds up the Clinton Valley with rock cliffs towering over you on both sides. The track gradually climbs to Lake Mintaro and Mintaro Hut which was newly built and moved further up the track in 2021.
Day 3 - Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut 13km / 6-7hrs
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Mintaro Hut sits at the bottom of MacKinnon Pass which will require hikers to ascend up to the shelter at 1154 meters. This is the hardest day as you navigate 15 switchbacks and gain incredible views of Lake Mintaro and the Clinton Valley below. Hikers will be rewarded with panoramic views at the top if the skies are clear. From here it is all downhill and hikers will navigate plenty of stairs to the valley floor. Drop your packs at Quentin Shelter and take the side trip to the unmissable Sutherland Falls (1hr 30min return trip). From here it is a short 45min walk to Dumpling Hut for the night.
Day 4 - Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point 18km / 6hrs
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The last day is the longest day at 18km and will take approx 6hrs but is one of the most scenic days of the trail. The hike is relatively easy going and flat as hikers follow the Arthur River and pass the mesmerizing Mackay Falls, Giant Gate Falls, and Lake Ada. The walk finishes at Sandfly Point which is aptly named, so load up on insect repellent as you wait for the 15min water taxi. Enjoy the spectacular views of the celebrated Milford Sound as you motor towards the wharf.
Check out the Mountain Safety Council video of the Milford Track here
Day Walk Options
​​Day walks can be completed by catching a water taxi from either Glade Wharf (start of the track) or Milford Sound (end of the track).
Suggestions:
Sandfly Point to Giant Gate Falls (return) - 3hrs / 4.6km. Catch a 15min water taxi from Milford Sound to Sandfly point and walk to Giant Gate falls. An easygoing flat track suitable for little hikers that takes you to the beautiful waterfalls. The water taxi ride will give you breath taking views of the iconic Milford Sounds. If you are happy to travel a little further to Sandfly Point this is probably the most scenic option in our opinion.
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Te Anau Downs to Clinton Hut (return) - 3hrs / 10kms. Catch a longer 50min water taxi across Lake Te Anau to Te Anau Downs. It's an easy walk under beech forest alongside the Clinton River. Stop for lunch at the hut to admire the mountains before returning to the wharf.
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Queenstown is a quite a drive to Te Anau Downs (2 hrs 30mins) and Sandfly Point (4hrs) so consider staying closer in Te Anau or the Milford Sound Lodge.​
Difficulty
The first day is relatively easy to Clinton Hut. The second day is much longer at 17.5km but the climb through the valley is very gradual only getting steeper just before Mintaro Hut. The third day is the most challenging day as you ascend up the MacKinnon Pass. Take your time and have breaks on the corners of the switch backs if needed. The downhill to the Quentin shelter takes approx 3 hours and is hard on the knees with a full pack. Don’t miss the side trip to Sutherland Falls it's not far from the Dumping Hut. Don’t get too excited when you reach Quentin Shelter, the lodge you see is for hikers on the guided walks. Day 4 is generally pretty flat with the odd climb but is the most scenic, so relax and enjoy.
Milford Track Elevation Profile
Source: Department of Conservation
Logistics & Bookings
The Milford Track is extremely popular, and it can be difficult to secure hut spots. Before you book anything, secure bookings for the huts first. For more information and tips on how to book the Department of Conservation (DOC) huts/campsites, check out the BOOK IT section or click the link below.
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All hikers will need to organize water taxi transport to enter and exit the Milford Track. Many companies will also provide packages for bus transport to and from the wharfs from Te Anau and Queenstown. It is possible to leave a car (at your own risk) for the duration of the hike and catch a bus back to your car. Ensure you leave no valuables in the car. Check out the link below for more information on transport options.​​​​​
Things We Learnt
Things we learnt on the Milford Track. Well....so much. This was our first multi-day hike and we certainly made some fails on this trip. Or should we say 'development opportunities'.​​
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So here goes:
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Pack weight matters - the more you take, the heavier the pack, and the harder the walk. Turns out champagne bottles are heavy even when empty. As we progress through the walks our food gets lighter, we take less clothes, and we re-think our liquids (but not all of them...)​
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Break in new footwear - Pablo had massive blisters on the soles of both feet from not breaking in his new boots prior to the hike. Tisk tisk. We never saw those boots again R.I.P
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​Boots aren’t for everyone - Julz would never return to hiking boots as her achilles was rubbed raw by the end of the walk. Although the boots were old and well-worn she opts for hiking shoes going forward and never looks back. ​​
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Ponchos are a pain - Advice to throw a poncho over yourself and pack to stop water getting in between your back and pack sounded legit. But the ponchos whilst they kept us predominantly dry were a hassle particularly on the windy second day. We looked like wet disheveled ghosts most of the day. Forget about them. But do invest in a good quality waterproof jacket.​​
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Sleeping Bag Liner - We go on to purchase sleeping bag liners to increase the warmth of our sleeping bags. Much cheaper than getting a new bag and keeps us warm enough for the next walks. The alpine walks can be colder, and we encountered snow at the top of MacKinnon's pass which made for a cold sleep. We had to wear all our clothes to bed to keep warm that night. Liners give options to manage your temperature and just use the liner for hotter nights.​​
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Extra boot lace - so this was on a standard list to add to our packs, so we did. Within a few minutes of our first ever Great Walk we found out why. Pablo trips on his lace, falls flat on his face (opting not to break the fall with any arms) and breaks his boot lace. Go figure. It takes up little to no room, so go on add it in.
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TIPS From The Crew
​1. Sutherland Falls - Don't miss this side trip. Drop your pack at the shelter and enjoy the lovely flat stroll to the falls and give your knees a break from all that downhill.
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2. Milford Sound Lodge - Milford Sound Lodge is a great place to stay after the track. It's another 1km walk from the Milford Sound wharf but the accommodation and food are worth the extra stroll. The night sky is amazing from here with some naughty Keas that hang around the rooms. ​
