Great Walks of New Zealand
Whanganui River Journey
North Island
The Whanganui River Journey is not actually a walk but a breathtaking canoe trip down the river, where you'll be surrounded by stunning natural landscapes and rich cultural history. As you paddle, you'll pass through deep gorges, lush forests, and quaint settlements, all while learning about the Maori and European history of the area. An unforgettable journey through calm waters and fast flowing rapids of the mighty Whanganui River that heads towards the Tasman Sea.
Quick Overview
If you are keen to read our real experience of the track - Read it here
Skip to the relevant section
The Whanganui River Journey
The Whanganui River Journey is not a hike but a canoe trip down the Whanganui River. The Whanganui River is in the central part of the North Island and not far from the Tongariro National Park (approx 1hr drive). The Whanganui River is of cultural significance and has been designated a legal person that has the same rights and responsibilities as one. This status reflects the Maori worldview that the river is a living entity.
The Journey should be completed during the Great Walks season (early Oct to April) and should only be attempted outside of this season by people very experienced in canoeing remote New Zealand rivers in winter. The Whanganui River Journey is not as busy as other Great Walks, and it is possible to book this Great Walk at short notice pending hut/campsite availability (except for public holidays).
What To Expect
The Whanganui River Journey can be completed in either 3 days or 5 days and you can expect to paddle between 6-7 hours each day. It is possible to book a one-day paddle down the Whanganui River to get a taste, but not all canoe companies offer this. So, which length is right for you?
3 Day Journey
The 3-day journey takes paddlers down the most scenic parts of the Whanganui River from Whakahoro to Pipiriki. The biggest rapids are on the final day, so paddlers have plenty of time to get acquainted with the river and practice their canoe skills before encountering these. If choosing the 3-day journey, camping is not required, and paddlers can stay at two huts (John Coull Hut and Tieke Kainga along the way). Instead of staying at Tieke Kainga it is possible to stay at alternative accommodation, The Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, on the opposite side of the river which offers comfortable rooms, hot showers, and a bar.
If you are keen to camp, there are 5 campsites on the 3-day journey that have basic facilities, running water and pit toilets, along the way (Mangapapa, Ohauora, Mangawaiti, Mangapurua, Ngaporo). Each campsite is roughly 2 hours apart so Ohauora and Mangapurua would be good campsites to stay at if completing the 3-day journey. Mangapurua campsite is also the landing to stop at if you wish to hike the Bridge to Nowhere.
We choose the 3-day journey figuring 3 days in a small canoe was a long time with another person and meant we didn't need to find some tents. We stayed at John Coull Hut and The Bridge to Nowhere Lodge. We encountered heavy rain on day 2 and were stoked to have hot showers and our own beds in a comfortable and warm lodge that night. The cold beer and burgers also probably helped.
5 Day Journey
The 5-day journey takes paddlers from Taumarunui to Pipiriki. The first two days travels alongside farmland and native bush before heading into the towering gorges and lush forests of the remaining days. The biggest rapids are on days 1,2, and 5 so paddlers will encounter some exciting rapids as soon as the canoe hits the river. Paddlers will need to carry tents and camp for at least the first night at either Ohinepane or Poukaria campsites. Just before Ohinepane Campsite is the Lavender Farm Cafe where paddlers can stop for a coffee and bite to eat.
It is possible to then stay at Whakahoro Bunkroom and the remaining two huts, John Coull Hut and Tieke Kainga, pending availability instead of camping. Alternative accommodation is available at the Blue Duck Station instead of Whakahoro Bunkroom which has a cafe and provides shower facilities at a small cost for anyone staying at the DOC campsites/bunkrooms.
Staying at Tieke Kainga
If staying at Tieke Kainga you may be invited to participate in a pōwhiri (welcome) onto the Marae if whānau are present. The process will be explained and is a great way to experience Maori culture. There is some general tikanga (protocol) that must be followed (incl no alcohol allowed). If staying here please read here for important information.
Difficulty
It goes without saying that you will need to be a confident swimmer as it is highly possible you may fall out of the canoe on the rapids. Canoe or kayak experience is preferrable, and paddlers need to be fit enough to paddle for 6-7 hours per day. The rapids are Grade 1 and 2 and are entirely suitable for beginners and those with just a little paddling experience during the Great Walk season.
Most of the crew had kayaked before and found canoeing easy to pick up. By the end of day 1 everyone was comfortable navigating into the rapids and couldn't wait for the next one. We are considering going back and completing the first two days of the 5-day journey to smash some more rapids. Although we felt paddling was easier than hiking, we did encounter a strong headwind on the last day. For most of the day we paddled strong and hard into the wind, which was challenging and tiring at times, feeling like we were going nowhere. 3 days of wind like that would be extremely hard going. However, we also encountered a day of heavy rain which made the river flow quickly and paddling was a piece of cake. The weather conditions will change the difficulty of this journey, so be prepared for anything.
Whanganui River Paddle Guide
Source: Department of Conservation
Logistics & Bookings
The Whanganui River Journey often has available hut and campsite bookings throughout the year, so advanced booking is not always required. Before you book anything, secure bookings for the huts/campsites first. For more information on Department of Conservation (DOC) huts/campsites check out the BOOK IT section above or click the link below.
Once you have organized the hut or campsite bookings you will need to choose a canoe company. There are a few to choose from who will organise all gear (canoes, barrels, paddles, life jackets, personal locator beacons, dry bags, chilly bins, camping gear) and transport to and from the river. Depending on where you are staying, one company may suit more than the others. Following conversation with locals, other canoeists, and our own experience of the canoe companies, below are two recommendations:
Whanganui River Canoes - based in Raetihi 30 mins drive from the end of the Journey. This company operates the Raetihi Holiday Park where you can safely park and base yourself prior to the trip. Raetihi is also only a 15min drive from Ohakune if staying there.
Taumarunui Canoe and Jet Tours - based in Taumarunui close to the start of the Whanganui Journey. Taumarunui have jet boats if needed to assist you on the river and offer comprehensive safety briefings in person and in video prior to paddling.
Our canoe company was pretty disorganized and casual (even by Kiwi standards) and is missing from the recommendations above but if you want to know more about our experience on The Whanganui River Journey read it here
For more information on how to get to The Whanganui River check out the BOOK IT section above or click the link below.
Things We Learnt
1. Don't forget to tie everything into the boat or it will go floating down the river if you capsize.
2. Make sure every boat has a bailer. Not all of our canoes had bailers, and we had to share them which is not always easy to do when our canoes were often hundreds of meters apart.
3. We were given kayak paddles (for the rear paddler) and canoe paddles. We found the kayak paddles were not as good in choppy weather with a significant head wind and couldn't dig into the water deep enough. Most of us preferred to use the canoe paddles.
4. Not all canoe companies are created equal. Check out the recommendations above.
5. The temperatures started to cool near the end of second day and we started to get cold. Long sleeved Merino tops and decent windbreakers kept us warm even when wet.
6. The weather and how fast the water is flowing will change your experience on the river. We got to experience it all - sun, rain, and wind.
7. Mandy at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge was so helpful and put up with us rowdy crew. If you can, we highly recommend staying there. They will come down with an ATV to cart your barrels to the lodge. The lodge is cosy and warm with magnificent views and a fully stocked bar. The walk up to the lodge is pretty muddy though, so consider packing some gumboots.
TIPS From The Crew
1. Label your barrels well so you know what is in them to avoid having to open them all up to find out.
2. Have a 'grab dry bag' with snacks, lunch, jacket, warm clothes, insect repellant, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and sunscreen close by in the canoe for easy access.
3. We found the tube from a hydration bladder was easier to drink from rather than a tied up drink bottle that rolled around in the canoe. Don't forget to hydrate especially on those hot days.
4. Wear gloves (cycling gloves are great) to avoid getting blisters from the paddles.
5. You are going to get wet. Wear clothes that are quick dry and will stay warm when wet like Merino.
6. Choose good footwear to get in and out of the canoes easily. Avoid jandals/flip flops and opt for old trainers, aqua shoes or Crocs. Crocs were awesome, they wash and dry easily, are comfy, with good grip to get up the steep and muddy banks.
7. If you have a spare barrel the communal rubbish bin barrel was pretty handy.
8. Grab some ice packs from home for the chilly bin or freeze some water bottles to keep your food nice and cold.
9. Don't assume the barrels are waterproof and make sure all your gear goes in dry bags or heavy-duty rubbish bags. Most of the canoe companies can give you dry bags.
10. Think 'camping not tramping' when creating your menu. You don't have to take lightweight hiking food and can be more creative with your meals.
