Great Walks of New Zealand
Paparoa
South Island
The Paparoa Great Walk is a stunning hiking trail located in the Paparoa National Park on the West Coast of New Zealand's South Island. The 55-kilometer track takes hikers through lush rainforest to rugged alpine terrain ending up in Punakaiki near the world-famous Pancake Rocks. Along the way, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the Tasman Sea, limestone cliffs, and amazing sunsets.
Quick Overview
If you are keen to read our real experience of the track - Read it here
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The Paparoa Track
The Paparoa Track is located in the Paparoa National Park on the West Coast of the South Island, close to where the The Heaphy Track is also located. The 50km track can be hiked year-round and in either direction over 3 or 4 days. The Paparoa Track was built along with the Pike 29 Memorial Track to remember 29 miners who lost their lives in the 2010 Pike River Mine disaster.
There are 3 huts on the track, Ces Clark Hut (16 bunks), Moonlight Tops Hut (20 bunks), and Pororari Hut (20 bunks). As the Paparoa Track opened in 2019 both the Moonlight Tops Hut and Pororai Hut are relatively new. There are no campsites on the track and camping is prohibited within 500 meters of the track.
The Paparoa, like the Heaphy, is a dual hiking and mountain biking track that takes 2 days to ride. The track crosses the alpine tops of the Paparoa Range with views to the Tasman Sea on one side and the Southern Alps on the other. The track descends hikers and bikers into subtropical rainforests, limestone karst landscapes, and through the dramatic Pororari River Gorge.
What To Expect
From Smoke-Ho Car Park:
Day 1 - Smoke-Ho car park to Moonlight Tops Hut 20km / 7-8hrs
Day 1 is all about the ascent. Starting at Smoke-Ho car park the track steadily climbs up podocarp and beech forest. The track is wide and well-formed as it is a dual track. The track then climbs more steeply into subalpine forest where you will get spectacular views of Lake Brunner and the Main Divide on a clear day. After10.3km of climbing you will reach Ces Clark Hut, an older DOC hut. It's the mid-way point if going on to Moonlight Tops Hut or the stop for the night if completing the Paparoa Track in 4 days.
After a well-earned lunch break the track carries on for another 9.7km across the Paparoa Range. The track is rocky underfoot, but the ascent becomes easier and there are magnificent views of Grey River, the Tasman Sea, and if you're lucky Mt Cook/Aoraki on a clear day. Moonlight Tops Hut is perched on a ridge with incredible panoramic views.
Day 2 - Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut 19.1km / 5-7hrs
Day 2 takes hikers from Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut which should take around 5-7 hrs. All the hard work is out of the way and although you will walk 19.1km today it is relatively cruisy. The track snakes around Mt Anderson and follows the ridgeline. At the halfway point there is a shelter and toilet which is a great stop for lunch. The rest of the walk is an easy descent through ancient podocarp forest and rainforest to Pororari Hut. If the skies are clear be prepared for an extraordinary sunset over the Tasman sea.
Day 3 - Pororari Hut to Punakaiki 16km / 4-5hrs
The hike today is predominantly downwards and is arguably the most scenic section of the walk. Hikers descend from the hut through native forest and follow the Pororari valley and river. At times you are walking beside the river and then before you know it have risen high above and are looking down at the valley. The track eventually leads into a stunning gorge with crystal clear water, with deep rock pools. The river is striking against the limestone karsts and nikau palms giving a prehistoric feel. On a hot day there are lots of swimming holes so take your time and enjoy it. Mountain bikers
and hikers will split off, with hikers continuing straight ahead following the river to the car park. It’s not often there is a bar across the road from the end of a Great Walk, so pop in for a celebratory drink.
Check out The Mountain Safety Council video of the Paparoa Track
Day Walk Options
It is possible to walk the very beginning or the end of the Paparoa Track. Walking from Punakaiki towards Pororari Hut through the Gorge is spectacular and arguably the most impressive section of the track. The track is reasonably flat and wide for families with little hikers. Walk in as far as you like and return.
It's also possible to start at Smoke-Ho car park and complete the ascent to Ces Clark Hut for mountainous views (on a clear day). It's 10km to Ces Clark Hut but hikers will make quick work of the descent back to the car park.
Difficulty
The days on the Paparoa Track are long particularly the first two days at around 20km each, if completing the walk in 3 days. The ascent to Ces Clark is steep just before you reach the hut, but beyond this becomes easier and more undulating towards Moonlight Tops Hut. This section is very exposed on top of the Paparoa Range and could be hard going in inclement weather. The west coast is known for some wild weather coming in from the Tasman Sea, so check the forecast before heading out. If unsure about your abilities, consider completing the walk in 4 days and staying at Ces Clark Hut. If you do, give the approx 1hr return side trip to Croesus Knob a go on a clear day and you might get views of Mt Cook/Aoraki.
From Moonlight Tops Hut onwards the gradient flows downwards most of the time and the hiking, although long at 20km and 16km is not too difficult in our opinion. Mountain bikers have an amazing time on this section bombing their way to the finish but are considerate and will look out for any hikers and slow down.
Paparoa Track Elevation Profile
Source: Department of Conservation
Logistics & Bookings
The Paparoa Track is not as popular as the Fiordland tracks as it is more remote, but you will compete with mountain bikers for bunks in the hut. Before you book anything, secure bookings for the huts first. For tips and more information on Department of Conservation (DOC) huts check out the BOOK IT section above or click the link below.
The track is not a loop track so you will need to organize track transport at some point either before or after the hike. We stayed in Punakaiki where the track finishes prior to the walk and stored out gear at the accommodation provider. We arranged transport by shuttle to the beginning of the track to Smoke-Ho car park approx 1hr drive.
It's nice not to have to catch transport at the end of the walk and convenient being able to walk back to the accommodation. It is easy enough to organize transport to take you back to Greymouth/Hokitika if needed.
Things We Learnt
1. Train for this one - Whilst we often have good intentions to train prior to completing a Great Walk it is usually common for us to have done very little. Most of us are generally fit and exercise regularly but we were cautious of the Paparoa Track. With 20km days the crew was warned to complete some training for this one and actually did. Ultimately it was a good decision. The track on Day 1 is a really long ascent up to Moonlight Tops Hut.
2. Don't take your keys - Pablo inadvertently takes the room keys on a 3 day trip up the Paparoa Ranges instead of giving them back to reception. Luckily the accommodation was really cool about it since we were coming back to stay. The Whanganui River canoe companies also hold your keys in a safe until you return as many people lose them to the river. If you don't have to, leave keys behind or attach them securely inside your pack.
3. Watch out for Weka birds - The Wekas at Parorari Hut are keen to join you for happy hour. Watch your drinks and snacks whilst enjoying that magical sunset.
4. Watch out for Mountain Bikers - Especially on the ascent. If you see them coming, make room. It's easier for you to get going again than them. They will watch out for you on the descent but move over quickly anyway, they will be coming in hot.
TIPS From The Crew
1. Highly recommend staying in Punakaiki before and after your hike as you walk out at Punakaiki so are not far from a hot shower and cosy bed. Most accommodation providers will happily store your bags until you return from the hike.
2. The Punakaiki Rocks and Hotel Garden Bar is opposite the exit of the Paparoa Track which is very handy to celebrate your accomplishment with a cold beer in the garden.
3. The Pororari River Gorge has lots of amazing places to swim in the crystal waters, so don't forget your swimming gear.
4. Don't forget to check out Punakaiki Rocks before you leave.
