Beyond the Crater - The Tongariro Alpine Crossing

With Covid shutting the borders, the crew decides it's a perfect time to attempt one of the most popular hikes in NZ, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The hike attracts thousands of people who hike 20kms through the Dual World Heritage site, traversing a unique environment past volcanoes and stunning crater lakes. The treacherous scree section is carnage and a few of us come off second best. Read on to hear about an incredible day climbing and falling down volcanic craters with epic pictures to blow your mind.

Track: Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Time of Year: February 2021

We have decided to base ourselves at Pukawa Bay on the shores of Lake Taupo before and after the hike. Mt Tongariro is located in the middle of the North Island and central to many little towns. We’ve hired an old kiwi bach (holiday home) that is essentially two houses joined together which manages to fit all 12 of us. We have decided to complete the one-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which will be a long day hiking 7-8hrs over 20.2km. There is a 4-hour restriction on parking at the Mangatepopo car park where we will start the hike, so in the morning, we will drive 40 minutes to the Ketetahi car park instead. The car park is monitored by security with a shuttle bus organized to take us one way to the start of the track. Alternatively, you can park on the side of the highway, but there are parking restrictions on some sections.

Day 1 - Mangatepopo Car Park to Ketatahi Car Park

We arrive at Ketetahi car park, use the toilets, and jump on a shuttle which takes about 25mins to the start of the track. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of the most popular Great Walks due to its location and because it can be completed in just one day. We decided to complete this walk now as the borders have been closed to international visitors due to Covid and we hope it will be less busy. There are still plenty of people attempting the crossing today, but Julz mentions it was bonkers last time she completed the crossing with hundreds more people. From next year, hikers will need to book in for the walk (at no cost) as DOC (Department of Conservation) try to limit the numbers of hikers each day to protect the environment. This sounds like a good idea.

The track starts off on boardwalk and it is a relatively easy walk through tussock, greenery, and a rock filled valley. The gradient increases mildly and in just over an hour we reach Soda Springs, where everyone stops to access the last toilet that you will see for a while. It is starting to get hotter, so we slap on some more sunscreen as there is no shade cover for the entire walk. The climb up to the plateau is strenuous but short with plenty of stairs to get your heart pumping as we trudge up like a line of ants across the mountainside. The climb takes about an hour to reach the dry and dusty plateau.

Looking back at Red Crater and Mt Ngauruhoe

The landscape is unreal here and you feel like you are on Mars or another planet. You get your first view of Mt Ngauruhoe to your right, and it is spectacular rising formidably out of the ground.

Mt Ngauruhoe

The walk across the wide expanse the of the South Crater plateau is flat and an easy stroll before the next climb.

Views from Blue Lake

From here we start the ascent up to Red Crater across a steep ridgeline. Although the track is easy to follow the ground is very rocky and I’m happy to have worn hiking boots. It’s easy to misstep and slip as you clamber your way higher.

When we finally reach the summit of Red Crater, the 360-degree views over the volcanic craters and lakes are epic. Mt Tongariro is still an active volcano last erupting in 2012, and you are humbled up here at the highest point of the track. The weather is outstanding today, but it would definitely be challenging up here on windy days or if the weather was poor.

Views to Blue Lake

Mt Ngauruhoe from the top of Red Crater

We take a break at the top for photos and to rest before we begin the hilariously perilous scree section. This section is a steep 100m descent down slippery rocks and loose scree; it is almost impossible not to fall over.

Descent from Red Crater down the scree to the Emerald Lakes

Its comical watching people navigate down with some preferring to run dangerously down at top speed, to others trying the side crab shuffle. Many hikers stack it through this section, with loose rocks falling all around, but everyone checks on those that have fallen to make sure they are ok and can get back up. Although I try the zig zag method, I end up twisting my knee which starts to throb over the final stretch of the walk. Poor La Laaa ends up sustaining a lovely black and blue shiner on her bum after falling on a big rock. The Emerald Lakes are located at the bottom of the descent and are a brilliant turquoise colour that contrast starkly with the volcanic surround and is a great spot for lunch.

Emerald Lakes

After lunch we head off and cross the crater floor to navigate a small climb up to the magnificent Blue Lake. All of the lakes on the Tongariro crossing are tapu (sacred), so cannot be touched or swum in.

Blue Lake

This is the halfway point of the hike, and we now have 10km of descent to go. The views stretch out across the horizon, and you can see Lake Taupo in the distance as we follow the trail. The descent feels really long and at times we feel like we must nearly be at the end but are still far too high.

The descent from the mountain looking towards Lake Taupo

It takes about 3 hours to reach Ketetahi car park, and we are all tired after a long day under such a hot sun. We have been lucky for perfect weather and can’t wait to head back to the bach and dive into Lake Taupo to cool down.

Views from the descent