Sandflies and Mountain Spas - Hiking the Heaphy Track
- May 14
- 12 min read
Updated: May 14
The Heaphy Track is the longest of the Great Walks and the crew are excited to head back to the West Coast for a 4-day adventure into NZ's wilderness. The track goes between Golden Bay and Karamea on the northeastern tip of the South Island. It takes hikers through ever changing scenery from wild beaches, through enchanting forests, to expansive open tussock plains with sweeping mountain scenery. The Heaphy seems to have it all with 'modern' huts mixed with old school huts to give hikers different experiences as they make their way from coast to coast. The huts also have magical 'Mountain Spas' to reward tired hikers with an icy plunge to test their resolve and alleviate sore muscles.
Track: Heapy Track
Time of Year: March 2026
Day 0 - Fly into Nelson
The crew starts arriving in Nelson from all over the country for our next Great Walk adventure. Three of the crew have had to pull out due to injury, so the crew are now down to 9 hikers. The last of the crew are about to arrive when Dr J sends some bad news. He missed his flight out of Gisborne this morning and won't arrive until late tomorrow, missing the flight to Karamea and probably the entire trip. I message him to contact Golden Bay Air directly to see if they can help. If he can get a flight to Wellington instead, Golden Bay Air can fly him directly into Karamea on the West Coast. The planes are very small, and I sincerely hope Wellington puts on a "You can't beat Wellington on a good day" day for him. Otherwise, I can imagine the flight could be absolutely frightening, flying out of the windiest city on the planet.
Day 1 - Fly into Karamea
We are picked up early and shuttled 1.5hrs to Takaka for our flight to Karamea. We are walking in 'reverse' from Kohaihai (West Coast) to Brown Hut (Golden Bay) so we end up closer to Nelson when we finish. We have decided to fly one way to avoid a lengthy 5-to-6-hour shuttle by road. It's more common to hike the opposite direction but we found the flights were significantly cheaper if we flew to Kohaihai and started there instead.
The shuttle driver tells us Dr J will meet us in Karamea a small plane has been sent to retrieve him this morning. Apparently, the wee plane felt any tiny whisper of wind. By the time Dr J touched down he needed a stiff drink and a prayer to calm the nerves. We have scored a brilliant day to cross Kahurangi National Park and our young pilot was very obliging at showing us the trail and the huts throughout the 30min flight. As we flew to Karamea you got a sense of how vast and untouched the National Park really is and an understanding of the sheer distance we would be hiking over the next 4 days, just shy of 80km. We fly lower over the coastline which is breathtaking below and land expertly on a tiny airstrip a couple of minutes outside Karamea.
Day 2 - Stay in Karamea
There was not a lot to do in Karamea and activities mostly involved walking which we were keen to avoid too much of. But we sampled all the white bait fritters on offer, remained very hydrated at the local pub, and packed and re-packed our bags (as you do) one more time.
Day 3 - Hike Kohaihai to Heaphy Hut
We head to Vinnies Cafe early to caffeinate, eat the mandatory pre-hike pie, and buy some sandwiches for lunch. The drive to Kohaihai is about 20 mins from town and the driver reminds us not to swim anywhere along the coast as it's too dangerous. He also recommends loading up on sandfly repellant when we arrive but says the further, we get away from the coast the least bothersome the sandflies become. Today we are hiking 16.2kms along the coastline to Heaphy Hut. Besides a quick climb over to Scott's Beach, the day should be cruisy following the track along the shoreline with flat or slightly undulating terrain. The forecast for the hike is for brilliant sunny weather for our entire trip, and we feel blessed that the rain gear will not make an appearance this time.
After spraying enough oily repellant to rival a greasy body builder we head onto the track and cross the first swing bridge over the Kohaihai River.
The climb begins immediately up to Scotts Beach look out, and as our legs and lungs warm up, everyone fiddles with their pack until it finally feels comfortable to carry for 4 days. The track hugs the coastline and honestly, we have scored a picture-perfect blue day to enjoy this section.
It's so tempting to stop and have a swim, but the waves and currents are clearly dangerous, and signs warn heavy swells can encroach the track in some spots when the tide is high. We are thankful to go in and out of shaded track with arching fronds of nikau palms providing protection from the sun.
We make good time and reach Katipo Creek Shelter our lunch time stop in about an hour and a half and bump into the DOC ranger heading the opposite way. He tells us the sandflies aren't that bad at the hut and there is a blood moon tonight which should be epic to witness. He reminds us not to swim in the narrow section of the river mouth, and the best swimming spot is in front of the ranger's hut. We chow down some lunch and are constantly stalked by a lone Weka and many bees' intent on trying to partake in our sandwiches. As we get ready to push on, the ranger mentions that we are more than halfway already and it is not much longer to the hut at all. We bump into lots of hikers on their final day walking in the opposite direction who all look relatively fresh after 4 days on the track. But they warn us of the persistent sandflies ahead.
Heaphy Hut sits on a stunning spot back from the beach and presides over a huge grassy area and the Heaphy River. It's a newer hut with 4 bunk rooms and a couple of flushing toilets attached to the main area. We claim some bunks, immediately change into our swim gear, and head down to the river.
We watch some other hikers in shallower water standing half in and half out of the river summoning the courage to fully immerse themselves and shivering. Getting into very cold water is like ripping off a band aid. Do it quickly, go all in, and feel free to scream a little. The river in front of the ranger's hut has an immediate drop off and is perfect to submerge rapidly before your mind can talk you out of it. The river is certainly refreshing but amazing after a hot hike and nowhere near as cold as the rest of the swimming holes to come. The afternoon is spent lazing on the grass, eating and watching the sunset from the beach.
After dinner everyone tried to stay awake long enough to see the blood moon and it didn’t disappoint. A dull white glow started to peek behind the mountain which eventually gave way to a glorious luminous halo that lit up the earth below. A great way to end a majestic first day on the track.
Day 2 - Heaphy Hut to James MacKay Hut
It’s expected to take around 6hrs today as we hike 20.5km and ascend up to James MacKay Hut. The great thing about hiking in this direction is you get to consume one days' worth of supplies and lessen your pack weight before the climb. The morning starts off chilly and the jumpers are on as we head off into the undergrowth of the native forest.
The track follows the river and is dark and shadowy in many parts with little sunlight able to creep through. The track continues to wind gently through the valley for the next couple of hours and just as we finally began to expel our extra layers, we reach the longest suspension bridge on any DOC track. For the first time we get to bathe in the warmth of the morning sun as we traverse the bridge and spy the river coursing below.
The next suspension bridge is just around the corner and leads us straight to the Lewis Shelter, hands down one of the nicest shelters encountered on any Great Walk. With a flushing toilet, gas burners and covered deck we could have easily stayed here for the afternoon.
After the crew refuels and when we finally tire of smacking sandflies, we start the 12.5km climb up to James MacKay Hut. The gradient is easy going and although you know you’re climbing it's not too strenuous. The day has started to heat up and as we hike upwards are grateful to be under canopy the entire way, as we get glimpses of mountain and the river views below through the trees.
We pass cute little babbling brooks and hop over mossy covered rocks along our travels.
We keep a keen eye out for Kiwi hearing that other hikers have seen them cross right in front of them, which is highly unusual for these shy nocturnal birds. But alas, we never spot any.
Although the gradient and track are not too difficult, we are definitely starting to tire as the climb persists. With only a couple more kms to go we sit down in the middle of the track and chow down some snacks and a sneaky margarita shot for the final push. Not long after we get going again the trees start to give way to brilliant sky and its clear we are nearly at our destination. The hut sits just above the track turn off and is just as nice as the Heaphy Hut with a few bunk rooms and flushing toilets connected to the main building.
From the hut you can see the Heaphy River mouth meeting the sea in the far distance where we started this morning.
Julz spies a little hand drawn map on the board giving directions to a Mountain Spa. Except for the Heaphy Hut we had no idea we could swim along this Great Walk so grab our towels and eagerly follow the directions. The track is short but a bit treacherous as we try to navigate roots and avoid sections of deep mud. A couple of minutes later we make it to a tiny waterfall with rock pool and hesitantly plunge into the frigid water. After a couple of minutes of gasping at the icy temperatures the bodies went completely numb, and any aches and pains we had were long gone.
Back at the hut we make dinner and chat to a group of older hikers on a guided tour. They are walking the track in 5 days and have stopped at each hut along the way and tell us to enjoy the last of the flushing toilets tonight. As we are hiking in the opposite direction, they’re keen to hear what awaits them the next day and we get asked by a few if the track is rocky. Clearly at some point we are going to encounter some very rocky terrain and I'm happy I choose hiking boots rather than shoes this time.
Day 3 - Heaphy Hut to Perry Saddle Hut
The hike today will be our biggest day on the trail as we travel 24.2km towards Perry Saddle Hut. We head off early and the trail starts off as a narrow track that we navigate single file. After spending yesterday under the cover of foliage, it’s nice to be in open landscape and see the sky. The morning is very still, and we all walk silently enjoying the sun rise in the distance and hear the crunch of pink granite under our boots.
There are boardwalk sections and lots of little streams that cut through the terrain.
The day is going to be a scorcher and thankfully before we get too hot, we are abruptly forced back into forest once again.
The scenery changes unexpectedly on this track and it is understandable why many hikers love this Great Walk, because it's never boring. We keep a look out for Kiwi and are lucky enough to finally spot the carnivorous snail Powelliphanta chilling on some moss.
Just as we get used to the sanctuary and coolness of the forest, we are pushed back out into tussock plains and the heat of the sun. It’s not far now to Saxon Hut which will be our halfway lunch spot.
As we arrive all the mattresses are outside and the DOC ranger is vigorously cleaning the hut and facilities. Saxon Hut is an old school hut with pit toilets and the bunks and main living area all in one. Very cosy indeed, but because it’s older and not as popular there is a good chance you might score it all to yourself. We see a sign for another Mountain Spa, and it would be a shame not to, so some of us have a midday swim to freshen up and the water is definitely getting colder.
The afternoon is steaming and we don't anticipate any further shade for the next section as we head off towards Gouland Downs Hut, which should take another 5.4km to reach. The earthy track cuts through dry tussock filled terrain bordered by towering mountain vistas. This section of the track is very exposed, and we sweat under the brutal rays of the sun. As we cross over an inviting river, a limestone cave and forest come into view in the distance. By the time we reach the forest we are stoked to be under cover and wonder aloud if we have entered the 'Enchanted Forest'. There seems to be many layers to the forest, and we stumble across a cave and convince Pablo to investigate and see where he ends up.
We call out after a long silence and locate him unexpectedly in another part of the forest. It's pretty magical in here and I reckon you could get yourself back to front if not careful. We exit the forest as quickly as we entered and see Gouland Downs Hut in the distance. One of the crew who had arrived earlier comes to intercept us on the track and tells us to hush up. A pair of Takahe, endangered NZ native birds, are pecking around the hut for food. But if we cause too much commotion on our arrival, we will scare them away. We have never seen Takahe as there are sadly only about 500 birds remaining in NZ. They are gorgeous plump birds with iridescent peacock blue and green feathers. They have cute little goosey honks and although wary of us, were happy enough to keep scavenging nearby as long as we didn't get too close.
Gouland Downs Hut is a historic hut and like Saxon Hut has the eating and sleeping quarters in one room. It's pretty funky and only fits 8 people so if you don't mind a bit of character and keen to avoid bigger huts, it's actually pretty cool. After our final snack stop, we don't hang about too long with 7.2km to go before we reach Perry Saddle Hut. I gently remind the crew that we will start ascending now for the final push and although I've mentioned it a couple of times there is still some surprise.
We load up our packs and roll out, quickly crossing the lucid water of Saxon River. We have a short and sharp rise to navigate and get gorgeous views down to the fast-flowing water below.
It's too late to contemplate a swim which is a shame as this is definitely the hottest section of the walk. We trudge across open plains, with the sunbaked trail snaking far ahead in the distance.
Shade is scarce and when we stumble across a small cluster of trees that are finally tall enough to provide shade, everyone takes turns huddling underneath, sculling water, and catching their breath. The ascent to the hut has well and truly begun, and when our tired legs finally reach the cover of the forest, we are deeply relieved to get a reprieve from the sun.
A kilometer from the hut the trail becomes awfully rocky, and we get a small taster of what's to come tomorrow. Perry Saddle Hut finally bursts into view, and it's a welcome sight after a long and sweltering day on the track.
We are some of the first hikers to arrive which is unusual for us, usually being relegated to whatever bunks are left. We snag an entire room to ourselves which will be helpful for our dreadfully early start tomorrow morning. We have been warned by fellow hikers that the Perry Saddle Mountain Spa will bring a zombie back to life, so we quickly change and start the perilous clamber down to the waterfall. Before we can talk ourselves out of it, we throw our bodies into the glacial pool for no more than a minute and scramble out. Worth it.
Day 4 - Perry Saddle Hut to Brown Hut
For the final day on the Heaphy, we will descend 17.5 km to Brown Hut. The signs indicate it will take 5 hours to complete and one of the shuttle drivers cautioned it definitely takes the full 5 hours. Since our transport will pick us up at 11:30am this means we must leave no later than 5:30am ewww. We are notoriously casual about being on time but I'm surprised when everyone is ready to go on the dot. It's pitch black out and head torches will be needed until the sun comes up. It becomes evidently clear why it will take the full 5 hours a couple of minutes in. The track is insanely rocky and, in the darkness, it is incredibly difficult to get the right footing with plenty of 'just about' ankle sprains taking place. Although we are stumbling through the blackness, most of us are enjoying the quiet over the next couple of hours. As the world begins to lighten around us, we get peeks of the sunrise emerging through the trees.
We keep a steady pace as we lower through the woodland and slowly the birds begin to chirp awake. The morning light is beautiful as the sun breaks over the ranges. We decide not to stop for long at Aorere shelter, mindful of our time.
We continue to spiral down towards sea level and calculate we have 20 mins to spare before the shuttle arrives. We spied a small track a few meters from the car park which takes us down to the river. We figure we had just enough time for one last refreshing dip (and bee sting) to finish another extraordinary Great Walk. Turns out we didn't have enough time, but the driver kindly waited while we put dry clothes on before hustling us into the van back towards real life.
What an awesome site! No BS, clever tips and some great pics. Thanks to the Slow Down team for the inspo and motivation. SM